A journey to the top of the world (well almost …) Part-I

If you had never ran 5km in his life, climbing 5 kms up in the sky would seem to be nothing but crazy. In May 2017, I decided to join a crazy bunch to Everest Base camp trek. A decision which entailed spending 13 days in sleeping bag, facing a mild blizzard, knocked down by a crazier bunch of people running downhill for Everest marathon and getting back home on a helicopter. And yet it motivated people to limp their way up the breathtaking Khumbu valley to base camp.

We flew from Kathmandu (1400m) to Lukla (2860m), often referred to as the most dangerous airport in the world. The bumpy landing we had at Lukla and death of pilot and co-pilot five days later while landing at Lukla, endorsed the label. But the most amazing view Himalayas offered there, made us forget everything else. Not to forget very helpful and hospitable Sherpa community. We started from Lukla check post by dancing on a popular Bollywood song with a Nepalese police officer.

The way up to Phadking (2610m), Namche Bazar (3440m), Tengboche (3867m) and Dingboche (4410m) offered multitude of flora and fauna besides snow leopard, moon bear and high altitude scrub vegetation (not to forget famed Yeti, during our daydreams). We moved along river Dudh Koshi, it's water as white as the Himalayan snow it comes from.

(A Sherpa hamlet somewhere near Phadking, Nepal.)

We took multiple short breaks to take photographs, sip water and munch energy bars. Every break was an opportunity to talk to members of other groups trekking together with us. The groups which start on the same day from Kathmandu, kept meeting during trek, in teahouses and keep chatting a lot, along the way. I met an American trekking continuously for last one year, an eighteen year old German boy who saved money to see four continents, a fifty five year old Canadian lady determined to make to the base camp, a seventy year old Japanese coming to Himalayas for the fourth time, a sixteen year old Indian school kid, an Israel Army officer on a world tour before his secret assignment and a Taiwanese teacher teaching and roaming across the world. We discussed everything from Trump to ancient Iranian culture. I learnt a new way to cook shakshuka and made some friends for life.

Playing cards in the heated dinning hall of teahouses was a preferred pass time. I spent one of those evenings playing with Sharon Sherpa, an eight year old daughter of teahouse owner. She was extremely happy when I made a paper swan for her and a smaller swan for her 3-year-old brother! Dinners often turned into smorgasbord. If one dish looked or tasted good, it got ordered by multiple people. One of our hosts looked flabbergasted when we ordered pizza for breakfast!

After four days of playing hide and seek with clouds, we finally got a glimpse of Mt. Everest on way to Tengboche. It’s very far and looked very small. The way leading up to top looked white and icy but the top seemed barren and black. May be because the pinnacle of the world is constantly bombarded with snow but the snow is whipped away by very strong wind streams.

(The first view of Everest (far left) from somewhere near Tengboche)

One of the most serene places along the way is Tengboche monastery. It’s as beautiful outside as peaceful inside. Many of us offered our prayers there and meditated for an hour during afternoon prayers. A very kind lama joined us outside, trying to get a yak inside before cold waves started. I asked him “There is so much bigotry in the world. Where do we start?’ He smiled and said “Start by loving yourself. Keep smiling.” I thanked him and he thanked me back for the opportunity to share with me. He also offered us two books to read along the way.

(The beautiful Tengboche monastery and picturesque landscape with Everest in background)

Next up along the way is a memorial built to remember those who could not come back home from Everest. We observed a two minute silence and offered our prayers there, saluting their push to final frontiers of human endurance.

As we wandered up to Dingboche, abruptly changing climate, high speed winds and cold weather made sure everyone had their windbreakers, down jacket and gloves out. Dingboche valley has stunning views of Ama Dablam peak (6812m) on one side and Nagarjuna peak (5100m) on other. Some of us climbed Nagarjuna peak next morning. Some others enjoyed the amazing starry sky that night in the open, inside the sleeping bag.

By the time we crossed Lobuche (4940m) and Gorak Shep (5164m), people were so tired, they were even ready to ride a yak. Some others wanted to hop on a helicopter. But despite extreme fatigue, headache and bruises, all of us were united in our desire to be at Everest base camp.

One can't help but make a final push for the spectacular Everest base camp. Beautiful alpine forests of pine and wild cherry blossom had made way for snowy melted glaciers. The orange tents at the edge of massive sheet of ice looked panoramic, an experience of a lifetime. The feeling that 'I made it' finally started to creep in as I pushed myself for the final ridge into the thin air.

The final ascent to base camp was more adventurous than the whole trip combined, when I almost fell down a massive snow block, faced a mini blizzard and collapsed of dehydration. But that's a separate story in itself. For now, I have to go down. I had promised Sharon that I will make a jumping frog for her, on my way back.

Rohit Kumar is an engineer and finance professional by training, but healthcare enthusiast by heart. For his day job, he works as a finance professional at a Fortune 5 firm. In a pro bono engagement with a charitable trust to build a 750 bed hospital, Rohit helped build a project report along with detailed financial model and helped pitch for venture capital funding. Rohit started his career working on the Tata Nano car engine development. He also had a brief stint in the Planning Commission of India, New Delhi and GSK Pharma.

Rohit led a group to the Everest Base Camp in May 2017. He crowdfunded an effort to light an ancient village in Leh, Jammu and Kashmir, through installation of solar microgrids. He loves sketching and is a distance running enthusiast. He has completed 3 half marathons. Rohit can be reached at krohit@outlook.com.